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  • How Kontoor’s Helly Hansen Acquisition Strategy Set the Stage for Success

    How Kontoor’s Helly Hansen Acquisition Strategy Set the Stage for Success

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  • By Elizabeth Kaske and Shelley Gupta

    What do you get when you pair American blue jeans with Norwegian sailing wear and skiwear? A company with complementary strengths, value-adding synergies, and growing market reach.

    It’s the outcome the leaders of Greensboro, N.C.–based Kontoor had in mind when they set out to grow the company from its foundation as the parent of Wrangler and Lee jeans into a portfolio of three iconic lifestyle, outdoor, and workwear brands. Kontoor’s leadership was looking for brands that could extend its platform into adjacent high-growth categories while preserving the company’s operational discipline and strong foothold in heritage apparel and workwear.

    Oslo-based Helly Hansen combines all those attributes as a nearly 150-year-old technical brand with credibility in both outdoor and professional workwear, meaningful international scale, and a growing U.S. market footprint. In addition, the leadership teams at both companies were a strong cultural fit, which helped establish trust and alignment from the outset. Kontoor closed its $900 million acquisition on May 31, 2025. For Kontoor, the main integration consideration was to unlock value while preserving the brand, culture, products, and technical knowledge that had made Helly Hansen successful.

    Retail M&A often underperforms because buyers overestimate synergies, growth, or the capacity to integrate. In apparel, excessive standardization can dilute the capabilities that made the target attractive in the first place. But Kontoor and Helly Hansen approached the integration differently, building on a strong strategic and cultural fit that helped both organizations contribute while preserving the qualities that made each business successful.

    Helly Hansen became the largest driver of Kontoor’s 2025 growth, helping lift its revenue 21% to a record $3.2 billion. The deal also improved gross margins and generated $100 million in cash within the first seven months of ownership. Investors noticed: Kontoor’s stock has risen 35% since its May 2025 closing, outperforming the S&P 500 by up to 10 percentage points. The deal offers practical lessons for acquirers seeking to drive growth without sacrificing the strengths of the assets they are acquiring.

    Making a Strong Fit Stronger

    Kontoor leaders set the stage by choosing an acquisition target that matched their needs on multiple levels.

    “We were clear on where we wanted to take the portfolio,” said Joe Alkire, Kontoor’s president. “Outdoor, workwear, and lifestyle were attractive spaces for us, and Helly Hansen was one of the few assets that brought together these areas of strategic interest. We also saw clear opportunities to add value through operational discipline, supply chain capabilities, and financial rigor while providing the brand with the investment, resources, and long-term support needed to unlock its next phase of growth.”

    After the announcement, leaders clearly communicated the strategy and deal value to both teams. Kontoor brought its scale, sourcing capabilities, operating discipline, and financial rigor to support Helly Hansen’s next phase of growth.

    The integration also benefited from a shared willingness to engage deeply to make the deal successful. “When we met with the leadership team at Kontoor, it quickly became clear they were the partner we needed to support our continued growth,” said Børre Hegbom, SVP global head of Helly Hansen. “They understood the business, listened carefully to our ambitions, and recognized that continued investment would be essential to unlocking long-term value. We were strongly aligned on the path forward from the beginning.”

    This alignment became a defining characteristic of the integration, as leaders from both organizations invested the time and energy required to preserve Helly Hansen’s strengths while accelerating growth under new ownership.

    Discipline, Governance, and Detail

    To achieve the expected deal value, the companies needed disciplined execution. Kontoor and Helly Hansen established a structured integration program that combined rigorous planning, governance, and synergy management to keep leaders focused on performance and value creation.

    Kontoor and Helly Hansen leaders consistently demonstrated a solutions-oriented mindset, viewing challenges as opportunities to strengthen execution and collaboration. Their ability to make timely adjustments while maintaining transparency and accountability and staying focused on the deal thesis helped sustain momentum and deliver strong results.

    Kontoor’s steering committee helped resolve integration challenges as they arose. Kontoor and Helly Hansen had different systems, operating philosophies, and expectations for progress. As friction increased, leaders used the governance process to identify risks and escalate decisions. Integration leaders anticipated risks before they slowed momentum through bridging differences in communication styles and expectations.

    A Longer Journey

    As the integration foundation stabilized, Kontoor leadership focused more fully on growth initiatives, reinforcing Helly Hansen’s role as a strategic priority and key growth driver. The deal preserved Helly Hansen’s strengths while giving it more room to grow.

    In Kontoor, Helly Hansen gained a strategic parent with a long-term interest in building its brand and investing in its growth. The balanced and disciplined approach to the integration helped generate more than $25 million in recurring synergies, putting the company on a path toward its targeted $40 million run-rate synergy goal by the end of 2027.

    The deal demonstrates multiple ingredients for integration success:

    Kontoor viewed the deal closing not as a finish line but as the beginning of a longer journey. One Kontoor executive who helped build the deal model relocated to Norway, taking ownership of day-to-day execution. That presence helped sustain momentum after closing, supported by a lean steering committee empowered to make decisions quickly.

    “Being present in Norway mattered,” said Kontoor’s Alkire. “It sent a clear message to the Helly Hansen team that this business was strategically important, that we were there to listen, and that we were committed to building the future together.”

    Kontoor further reinforced that commitment with the appointment of Børre Hegbom, a Helly Hansen veteran of more than two decades, as brand president, reflecting the parent’s confidence in the new team and its commitment to preserving the company’s culture.

    In early June 2026, Kontoor leaders went to Norway to celebrate the first anniversary of the deal with Helly Hansen employees at the company’s summer picnic, emphasizing that Kontoor viewed the acquisition as an ongoing investment in the combined company’s future.

    Elizabeth Kaske is the EY-Parthenon Global and Americas Mergers and Acquisitions Leader, Ernst & Young LLP.

    Shelley Gupta is an Executive Director in the EY-Parthenon Transaction Strategy & Execution team, Ernst & Young LLP.


    Learn how EY-Parthenon M&A advisory services can help organizations refine their growth strategies, perform deal sourcing, conduct diligence and valuation, and achieve greater synergies during M&A integration.

    The views reflected in this article are the views of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the views of Ernst & Young LLP or other members of the global EY organization.

  • Equity Can Motivate Frontline Employees—If They See Their Impact on the Bottom Line

    Equity Can Motivate Frontline Employees—If They See Their Impact on the Bottom Line

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    Summary.   

    Employee ownership can motivate frontline workers—but only when companies make the connection between daily behavior and financial value clear. In a new study, researchers found that

    This article was produced by Harvard Business School Working Knowledge and features the insights of faculty members Ethan Rouen and Ashley V. Whillans.

  • Research: The True Cost of Corporate Scandals? Talent.

    Research: The True Cost of Corporate Scandals? Talent.

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    New research tracking millions of career moves shows that corporate misconduct carries a significant hidden cost: voluntary employee departures. An analysis of 735 large public companies found

    The traditional way companies think about regulatory penalties is almost entirely financial. Analysts model the balance-sheet impact. Legal teams assess appeal options. Communications drafts a statement. The penalty gets absorbed, the stock recovers, and the organization moves on. The implicit assumption is that the workforce will do the same.

  • When Is It Time to Step Down?

    When Is It Time to Step Down?

    HBR Executive delivers trusted insights and actionable strategies to guide leaders through consequential decisions. Practical tools, and forward-looking perspectives cut through the noise to equip you to navigate uncertainty, stay ahead of emerging trends, and plan for a stable future.

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      Concrete strategies, tactics, and solutions to real challenges from your peers and other experts. Published every 2 weeks. All Playbooks (Opens a new page)

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      A weekly newsletter of timely insights that interpret today’s business climate and help you chart a path to what’s next. All Agenda (Opens a new page)

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  • When a Team Member Underperforms—but Has Organizational Capital

    When a Team Member Underperforms—but Has Organizational Capital

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    HBR Staff/AI

    Summary.   

    Leaders sometimes inherit an underperforming employee they cannot remove, leaving them responsible for results without the authority to address the problem. They can limit the damage by testing

    Some of the most damaging performance problems have nothing to do with who you hired. They’re about members of your team you’re not allowed to remove.

  • How AI Is Changing Talent, Not Just Tasks: Rethinking Where Human Judgment Matters Most

    How AI Is Changing Talent, Not Just Tasks: Rethinking Where Human Judgment Matters Most

    September 17, 2026

    The decisions leaders must make about AI today go far beyond what platforms to invest in: AI is changing organizational culture and leadership for good. In episode 1 of a special four-part series on how AI is changing leadership, we look at how the technology is changing how people interact at work, the new culture it is creating, and how leaders can get smart about talent management and strategy in this rapidly advancing world. Paula Goldman, Salesforce’s chief ethical and humane use officer, argues there’s currently a big opportunity to redesign work around the complementary strengths of humans and AI. She explains how AI could reshape entry-level jobs and the development of future leaders, why companies need to rethink internal mobility and talent development, and how executives can prepare their organizations for an AI-powered workforce without sacrificing accountability, creativity, or trust. Goldman is the author of Manage the Machine: How to Harness Human-AI Collaboration at Work.

    Plus:

    • Why “human in the loop” is an outdated model for managing AI—and what it means to put humans “at the helm.”
    • How leaders can determine which tasks to delegate to AI and where human judgment matters most
    • Why treating AI primarily as a cost-cutting tool could mean missing its bigger potential
    • How companies can redesign jobs and develop talent as AI takes over more routine tasks
    • Why leaders need to think differently about entry-level hiring and the development of future executives
    • How organizations can use AI to improve management, internal mobility, and employee development
  • What Leaders Need to Know About AI and Psychological Safety

    What Leaders Need to Know About AI and Psychological Safety

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    AI’s perceived neutrality plays a role in reshaping how psychological safety is experienced in organizations. When employees use AI to surface concerns they don’t feel safe raising

    Marcus had been building the case for six months. The proposed regional expansion made strategic sense, the market data supported it, and leadership had given the green light. He called the team together and laid out the plan. Two days later, an anonymous email arrived with a forwarded document and no explanation. Three pages. Someone had asked an AI tool to make the strongest case for the expansion and the strongest case against it.